Chuja Island by Foot, Fins, and Flatbed Truck

Islands are an addiction. Wherever you stand, whether on an archipelago, an extinct volcano, or a continent masquerading as something self-contained, there will always be a smaller island. This weekend I found myself on Chuja Island, a tiny dot of land alone in the waters off of the Korean peninsula. …

Read on

How to Lose a Volleyball Tournament with Style

This weekend brought Jeju’s largest waygook event: the Jeju Furey Beach Volleyball Tournament. For two days each May, Hamdeok Beach becomes home to oddly-shaped sunburns, stray volleyballs, and a moving mosaic of team t-shirts. There are moves that people in the know might possibly call sets, or spikes, or rallies, as …

Read on