The Bolsa Chica Wetlands, Where Even Arsenic is Safe

Bolsa Chica Pocket Marsh

The ending of a river such as the Los Angeles River is a complicated affair. I cannot sit on a boat and point towards fresh water on one side, saltwater on the other; the river slides through these categories in the shifting forms of wetland estuaries. Today, years of development …

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Culture Shock and Kelp in California

Surfacing at Laguna Beach

Twelve days ago, my plane dropped down onto the tarmac of the LAX airport. The sky was clear as we landed. Houses aligned like Legos. On the horizon, mountains stood blue and distant, their silhouettes crisp against the empty sky. I knew almost nothing about those mountains. Michelle and I …

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Things to Do On Jeju Island: My Top 6 Days

Yakcheonsa temple roof early morning

This Sunday was exquisite. I woke up at a decent hour, cleaned my apartment, then rode my scooter with a friend down to Uncle Tony’s on the Hagwi-Gwatchi coastal road. We had fish and chips. The perfect pitcher of sangria. All in the sun. Then we headed down the coast …

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