Chuja Island by Foot, Fins, and Flatbed Truck

Islands are an addiction. Wherever you stand, whether on an archipelago, an extinct volcano, or a continent masquerading as something self-contained, there will always be a smaller island. This weekend I found myself on Chuja Island, a tiny dot of land alone in the waters off of the Korean peninsula. …

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How to Lose a Volleyball Tournament with Style

This weekend brought Jeju’s largest waygook event: the Jeju Furey Beach Volleyball Tournament. For two days each May, Hamdeok Beach becomes home to oddly-shaped sunburns, stray volleyballs, and a moving mosaic of team t-shirts. There are moves that people in the know might possibly call sets, or spikes, or rallies, as …

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Why I Chose to Become A Mermaid

Jeju Island has real-life mermaids. They do not look like what you might expect. Instead of smooth porcelain skin, their faces are mapped with wrinkles. In place of long, flowing hair, they flaunt ear-length perms. Their backs bend permanently at the waist. Most are missing teeth. But underwater they move …

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