A Prospector, a Fictional Cat, and the San Gabriel River by Bicycle

“The river talks. Breathes. Moves. Sometimes, it even makes music. I know that sounds insane, but it’s true.” I wondered at the clarity of the man’s eyes as he talked, their color set against the massed brown of his hair and beard. He made a modest outline against the trail, …

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Things to Do On Jeju Island: My Top 6 Days

Yakcheonsa temple roof early morning

This Sunday was exquisite. I woke up at a decent hour, cleaned my apartment, then rode my scooter with a friend down to Uncle Tony’s on the Hagwi-Gwatchi coastal road. We had fish and chips. The perfect pitcher of sangria. All in the sun. Then we headed down the coast …

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Chuja Island by Foot, Fins, and Flatbed Truck

Islands are an addiction. Wherever you stand, whether on an archipelago, an extinct volcano, or a continent masquerading as something self-contained, there will always be a smaller island. This weekend I found myself on Chuja Island, a tiny dot of land alone in the waters off of the Korean peninsula. …

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